THE ART OF JEWELLERY REPAIRS

Repairing jewellery is where craftsmanship, chemistry, and care meet. A well-executed repair restores function and beauty, preserves sentimental value, and often extends a piece’s life by decades. This guide explains what happens at the bench, the most common repair procedures, how jewelers protect stones and finishes, realistic timelines and costs, and how you can care for repaired pieces at home.

Why Professional Repairs Matter

Bench jewellers are skilled artisans who combine traditional metalworking with modern tools to create, restore, and maintain jewellery. They assess structural integrity, choose the right metals and techniques, and finish work so seams and joins are invisible while keeping stones secure. Professional repairs prevent further damage and protect the piece’s value.

Common Repairs and How They Are Done

Ring Resizing

• Making a ring smaller: The jeweller measures the correct size, cuts a small section from the shank, then solders the ends together, reshapes on a mandrel, and polishes to hide the seam. This method preserves strength and is standard for most gold, silver, and platinum rings.

• Making a ring larger: For more than a tiny increase, a matching metal insert is cut and soldered into the shank; for very small increases, controlled stretching can be used on plain bands. Jewelers choose the method based on metal, design, and whether stones or patterns run around the band.

Chain and Clasp Repair

• Broken links are rejoined by soldering or laser welding; stretched or kinked chains may be rebuilt link-by-link; clasps are replaced or reinforced to restore secure closure. Proper repair preserves the chain’s original look and strength.

Prong Repair and Stone Security

• Prong re-tipping and tightening: Worn prongs are rebuilt or reshaped and then polished. Jewelers use vector tightening and other techniques to secure stones without stressing them. Regular checks reduce the risk of stone loss.

Re-shanking and Rebuilding

• Worn shanks (the bottom of rings that wear thin) are replaced or reinforced with a partial shank or full re-shank. This restores comfort and structural integrity while matching the original profile.

Soldering and Laser Welding

• Soldering joins metal pieces using a filler metal and heat; when done correctly, seams are nearly invisible. Laser welding offers precise, low-heat joins ideal for delicate settings and repairs near gemstones. Both require skill to avoid heat damage to stones and finishes.

Stone Replacement and Resetting

• Missing or damaged stones are matched for size and quality, then set using the appropriate method prong, bezel, channel, pavé, flush, etc. to balance security and appearance. The setting type determines how the stone is held and how much light it receives.

The Repair Workflow Step by Step

1. Initial assessment — Inspect for loose stones, worn metal, solder fatigue, and hidden damage.

2. Estimate and approval — Provide a clear quote and timeline; note any risks (e.g., fragile stones).

3. Disassembly and cleaning — Remove stones if necessary and clean the piece to reveal true condition.

4. Repair work — Perform resizing, soldering, re-shanking, prong work, chain repair, or stone setting.

5. Finishing — File, buff, polish, and re-plate (if required) to match original finish.

6. Quality check — Verify stone security, clasp function, and finish; test for comfort and durability.

7. Customer handover — Explain what was done, any care recommendations, and warranty or follow-up checks.

Each step is executed to protect the piece’s aesthetics and structural integrity.

How Jewelers Protect Stones and Finishes

• Heat-sensitive stones (pearls, opals, emeralds) are removed before high-heat work or protected with heat sinks.

• Rhodium plating is applied to white gold after repairs to restore colour and shine.

• Ultrasonic cleaning is used selectively; delicate or fracture-prone gems are cleaned by hand.

• Finishing techniques—satin, high polish, brushed—are matched to the original look so repairs blend seamlessly.

Realistic Timelines and Cost Factors

Typical timelines

• Simple chain or clasp repair: 24–72 hours.

• Ring resizing or prong re-tipping: 2–7 business days.

• Complex rebuilds, re-shanking, or custom work: 1–3 weeks depending on parts and workload.

Cost drivers

• Material: platinum and high-karat gold cost more to match and work with.

• Complexity: pavé or channel-set pieces require more time and precision.

• Stone handling: removing and resetting stones increases labour.

• Finish and plating: rhodium plating or deep refinishing adds cost.

• Urgency: rush jobs may incur extra fees.

What You Can Do Before and After a Repair

• Before: Remove dirt and oils so the jeweller can inspect the true condition; note any provenance or previous repairs.

• After: Avoid wearing repaired pieces during heavy manual work for at least a week; keep them dry until any soldered joins fully settle; follow any specific care instructions from your jeweller.

• Routine checks: Have prongs and settings inspected every 6–12 months, especially for frequently worn rings.

When a Piece Cannot Be Repaired or Needs Special Handling

• Certain metals like tungsten or titanium are difficult or impossible to resize.

• Eternity bands with stones all the way around often cannot be resized without remaking the ring.

• Heavily corroded or structurally compromised pieces may require partial remaking or conversion into a new design.

A reputable jeweller will explain alternatives such as remounting stones into a new shank or creating a custom replacement.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long will my repair last?

With proper technique and materials, repairs are permanent; however, wear and tear can require future maintenance—especially for prongs and thin shanks. Regular inspections extend longevity.

Is laser welding better than traditional soldering?

Laser welding is more precise and uses less heat, making it ideal near gemstones and for delicate work. Traditional soldering remains excellent for many joins and larger repairs. The choice depends on the job.

Can you match old metal exactly?

Skilled jewellers match karat and colour, and use finishing and plating to blend repairs. Exact patina or antique finishes may be difficult to replicate perfectly, but the goal is a seamless result.

Final Notes and How to Choose a Repairer

• Look for experience and transparency: a good jeweller explains options, risks, and provides a written estimate.

• Ask about tools and techniques: bench jewellers who use laser welding, proper soldering, and quality finishing will deliver better results.

• Value craftsmanship over lowest price: a poor repair can cause more damage and cost more in the long run.